July 11, 2012
raf simons & dior.

Looks by Christian Dior himself, Time Magazine, 1957.

There’s no denying that Raf Simon’s Dior debut last week was beautiful. Since joining Jil Sander in 2005, he’s gone from little-known to critically praised by folks like Cathy Horyn for his use of minimalism and color. In April, it was announced he would take over at Dior in lieu of John Galliano’s exit AKA dismissal. BIG SHOES TO FILL.

Last week, all eyes in Paris (all eyes blogging/tweeting in Paris) were on his Couture show.

The show was unanimously loved by almost all critics, that is, except one lonesome BoF reporter who cried Simons drew too literally from the Dior archives.

I first diagnosed this man as clinically insane and then realized…hmm…perhaps he IS onto something. It’s a tricky line, right? Remember when Alessandra Facchinetti was dismissed for NOT drawing enough from the Valentino archives? And now those 2 ex-accessory designers do a pretty decent job, but nothing compared to Mr. Valentino himself? (SIDE NOTE: IF YOU HAVE NOT SEEN THE VALENTINO DOCUMENTARY STOP READING THIS NONSENSE NOW AND GO DO YOURSELF A FAVOR. I cried like a baby the first time I saw it.)

Anyways the moral of this story can be found in the last sentence of the BoF critique: “He is not son of John Galliano. He is Raf Simons, future leader of the pack.”

GO FORTH, RAF! Make us proud!

What do YOU think about his debut????

Dior, 1954.

Dior Couture, Fall 2012.

Christian Dior, 1951. Harpers Bazaar.

Dior Couture, Fall 2012.

Christian Dior, date unkown.

Dior Couture, Fall 2012.

Chrisitan Dior, 1957.

Dior Couture, Fall 2012.

To conclude: my favorite look, which I would like to stamp with “CHIC. AS. SHIT.”

I so badly want to wear this to an evening wedding in the fall. Can you imagine. CAN YOU. But really, please tell me what YOU think. xoxo.

January 30, 2011
“clothing is too mundane a word”

I have been waiting all week to blog about this because I’m not even sure how to describe it. The couture shows were all INCREDIBLE last week, as always, but I was particularly captivated by John Galliano’s Dior masterpieces. The show was a tribute to Rene Gruau, the Dior illustrator in the 1940s and 50s, and I think it somehow encompasses everything I find inspiring about fashion. 

Galliano’s results were hailed by critics with praise like “clothing is too mundane a word.” He used chiaroscuro (the interplay of light and shade) to replicated Gruau’s watercolor sketches. The graphite smears, pencil strokes, and eraser marks of the illustrations were duplicated in the cloth and embroidery in the dresses. Galliano dyed fabrics so the light fell from the right shoulder towards the left. 

See the rest of the show here. 

January 7, 2011
Citrus.

Thoughts for Spring 2011: vibrant and dramatic citrus-infused colors

Lanvin (all images Spring 2011 RTW)

Proenza Schouler

Dior

Halston

Marc Jacobs

Jil Sander

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